Edinburgh, Scotland – beautiful and budget friendly
It seems as if everyone I know is planning a trip to Scotland this year. It also seems that everyone has been asking for suggestions and tips for making the most of their time in Scotland. So first up, Edinburgh.
I spent a whole lot of time in Edinburgh this year. It was so easy to grab a bus or the train and head into the city that I did just that several times as week. I’ve also benefited from previous visits to Gillian and Robert(my in laws) who lived in Edinburgh for decades. It’s a very walkable city and is quite affordable if you know where to look.
Since we are coming up on go time for many of my friends and since my days here on the Delta are ones of endless hull sanding and sewing projects, I am going to put aside sailor life for a minute and don my tour guide hat. Welcome to Scotland.
First and foremost, Edinburgh is lovely, beautiful and has tons to see and do, but it absolutely wall to wall with tourists. Its not a bad thing, its just a fact. There are more tourists than locals.
You will know them by their tendency to clump up at the bus stops preventing people from walking by (Americans can not queue) and also by the wearing of tartan. Unless the rugby is on or they are a piper, locals won’t be wearing tartan or kilts. Locals wear high visibility vests. This is is the actual National dress of Scotland. Its true. The kilt thing is just a myth.
Edinburgh Castle discount admission- If you are planning to visit historic sites while in Scotland, you’ll want to purchase an Historic Scotland Explorer pass. At 44 pounds for a two week pass and daily admission tickets averaging 20 pounds, once you select three locations to visit you are saving money. There is a list of sites included in the pass on the website above.
You’ll need to book your tickets in advance even with a pass. On the day of your visit, pick up your tickets at the kiosk in front of the castle. You’ll want to plan on 2-3 hours at the castle.
Exiting the castle, you’ll stroll the Royal Mile. Its lovely with is cobblestoned closes and alleyways, the stunning St. Giles National Cathedral and all the gorgeous old buildings. Enjoy the busking musicians and toss a few coins in their instrument case. Try to navigate past the tour groups whose guides seem to encourage clumping so that pedestrians can not walk by. Locals love tourists clumping. Its their favorite.
St, Giles is open during the day and is free though a donation to help preserve the Cathedral is appreciated. Please note that St. Giles hosts a daily afternoon service and all are invited to attend. Please, please, please for the love of all that is holy can we NOT have tourists wandering the aisle, recording video and taking selfies during the service? It wasn’t just the Americans doing this. Tourists gonna tourist. Please remember that the Cathedral serves a spiritual purpose for its parishioners so be respectful- especially during services.
As you walk down the Royal Mile, have a look at all the tartan and tweed in the shop windows, but save your souvenir money for elsewhere. The prices are steep, the quality is crap and there are far better places to purchase souvenirs. Many of the shops have a sign out in front of their buildings with a beautiful portrait of Diana, Princess of Wales informing all that they carry products in the Princess of Wales Memorial tartan. Look down the Mile and see portrait after portrait of Princess Diana in a place of honor. Wonder like I did if that home wrecker Camilla is annoyed by these signs every time she comes to Edinburgh….
With the Castle to your back, on your right hand side down below is the Grassmarket area. A Unesco Heritage site, its full of mediocre at best pubs and restaurants and Tartan tat shops. You’ll want to note the public execution spot in the center. It will be swarmed with tour groups. The pubs will be filled with students and tourists on a nice weekend. The are worse places to spend an hour or so, but its really just a spot of interest on your way to the National Museum of Scotland. The Scots are rightfully proud of their national museums in Edinburgh and both the National and Portrait are do not miss sites in Edinburgh. They are also free. This fact is not the sole reason the Scots are so in love with their museums but it is a big one.
Entering from the Tower entrance into the museum, you’ll find the entrance to the Kingdom of the Scots exhibits. If you don’t have time to explore the rest of the really good museum, this is the collection of some of Scotland’s historical artifacts with tons of historical information. Remember that admission to the National Museum as well as the National Portrait gallery are free? Here is your chance to support them. You can offer a donation but you can also support the Museum by purchasing your souvenirs and mementos here. The quality and range of products at the museum gift shops is really quite good with options available at every price point. This is where to spend your money. From Harris Tweed handbags and tartan wool scarves to I <3 Scotland tshirts and plastic Nessies to Isle of Lewis replica chess sets to a postcard for your gran, they have it. For less money than the Tartan tat shops and you are helping to fund the museum.
Across the street from the Tower entrance of the museum is the statue of Greyfriars Bobby. Get your photo, don’t rub his nose as it annoys the locals and continue on. Please note that I intentionally skipped Greyfriars Kirkyard and Victoria Road. If you are an IG influencer by all means visit these both to get your required Edinburgh content, but for regular folks there are far more interesting kirkyards and Victoria Road is just some shops and cafes which you can find on many other less crowded spots throughout Edinburgh.
If you are looking for a traditional folk music session, head over to Sandy Bell’s. Its legendary for a reason. It is also wee so don’t be afraid to come a bit early to get a seat. Enjoy the music, enjoy a dram and then awa to yer bed because there is still so much to do tomorrow…
And this concludes part one. Edinburgh part two coming soon!
